一蛇,三食

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口述:林道生。整理:姚志龍。

林老師你敢捌食過蛇肉?這个問題才講出喙,林老師煞一直笑、一直笑。哇!毋是捌食過若定,是食過足濟種蛇矣。三十外年前,猶無野生動物保育相關 ê 立法,無論掠啥、食啥攏無要緊,佮現在 ê 情形完全無相仝。所以,凡若會飛–ê、會 peh–ê、會趖–ê、會泅–ê、會行–ê,看會著–ê、想會著–ê、掠會著–ê,差不多我攏捌食過。台語有一句俗語:「有毛吃到棕簑,無毛吃到秤錘,有跤–ê 食到樓梯,無跤–ê 食到桌櫃。」

傳說中,蛇是排灣族、魯凱族 ê 祖先,in tō 無咧食蛇肉。泰雅族、布農族 tō 有食蛇肉 ê 習慣。古早台灣人有吃蛇治病 ê 民俗療法,我細漢佇日治時期捌生粒仔,聽著花蓮北濱 ê 赤腳醫生講:蛇有清毒 ê 效果。阮 tō 去北濱後面花崗山掠蛇轉來燉老薑母,肉、湯攏愛食落腹。吃幾擺後,粒仔就好矣。內山物資無遐豐富,會食 chit ê 物件較有限,總是南北二路 ê 族人嘛真 gâu,差不多攏知影,啥物件會使挽、啥植物有毒袂使動著。一擺我去台北藝專(藝術大學)開會,會後音樂系 ê 主任來揣我:林老師你難得來台北,今暗我請你來去食會所食「一蛇,三食啦!」我想起細漢食蛇肉治療粒仔足好用!就答應做伙去享受。彼間山產店開佇艋舺,今已經關起來矣!

行到店頭,頭家真親切來招呼,欲吃佗一種蛇「通通有」。系主任用手舉一尾蛇講:阮欲三款食法。頭家解釋,按呢就是:「頭、尾佮骨煮湯、蛇中箍 ê 肉做 sā-sí-mih、尾仔用烘–ê。」蛇膽筊破後,斟落米酒,用細塊玻璃甌仔,一个人啉一屑仔,因為蛇肉足鮮–ê,所以食 sā-sí-mih ê 時無特別感覺按怎。蛇頭,愛內行–ê 才會曉處理,若無共毒提起來,是真危險,免煩惱啦!頭家攏足 gâu 刣蛇。共蛇吊咧,用一支細支筊刀,對頭下面 ê 皮剪開,筊刀佇蛇 ê 頷仔頸踅一輾,雙手共蛇皮向下面掣落,出一个力蛇皮佮身軀就分開,干焦賰尾溜蟯蟯搖。

毋捌食過蛇肉 ê 人會膽膽,食過一定會閣想欲食。有人講蛇肉食起來,若咧食雞肉絲咧,有夠清甜–ê,gâu 生頭發尾–ê,粒仔、疔仔、癰仔,若殘殘食兩擺阿,皮膚真緊就會幼綿綿,真滑溜。講若咧講咧,敢有遐好用?

Lîm lāu-su lí kám bat chia̍h kòe chôa-bah? Chit-ê būn-tê chiah kóng chhut chhùi, Lîm lāu-su soah it-ti̍t chhiò, it-ti̍t chhiò. Oa̍h! M̄ -sī bat chia̍h kòe nā-tiāⁿ, sī chia̍h kòe chiok chē chióng chôa–ah. 30 gōa nî chêng, iáu bô iá-seng tōng-bu̍t pó-io̍k siong-koan ê li̍p-hoat, bô-lūn lia̍h-siáⁿ, chia̍h-siáⁿ lóng bô iàu-kín, kap hiān-chāi ê chêng-hêng oân-choân bô-sio-kāng. Só͘-í, hoān-nā ē poe–ê, ē peh–ê, ē sô–ê, ē siû–ê, ē kiâⁿ–ê, khoàⁿ ē tio̍h–ê, siūⁿ ē tio̍h–ê, lia̍h ē tio̍h–ê, chha-put-to goá lóng bat chia̍h kòe. Tâi-gí ū chi̍t-kù sio̍k-gí:“Ū mo͘–ê chia̍h kàu chang-sui, bô mo͘–ê chia̍h kàu chhìn-thûi, ū kha–ê chia̍h kàu lâu-thui, bô kha ê chia̍h kàu toh-kūi.”

Thoân-soat tiong, chôa sī Pâi-oan-cho̍k, Ló͘-khái-cho̍k ê chó͘-sian, in tō bô leh chia̍h chôa-bah. Thài-ngá-cho̍k, Pò͘-lông-cho̍k tō ū chia̍h chôa-bah ê si̍p-koàn. Kó͘-chá Tâi-oân-lâng ū chia̍h chôa tī pēⁿ ê bîn-sio̍k liâu-hoat, góa sè-hàn tī Ji̍t-tī sî-kî bat seⁿ lia̍p-á, thiaⁿ tio̍h Hoa-liân Pak-pin ê chhiah-kha i-seng kóng: Chôa ū chheng-to̍k ê hāu-kó. Goán tō khì Pak-pin āu-bīn Hôa-kong-san lia̍h chôa tńg lâi tīm lāu-kiuⁿ-bó, bah, thng lóng ài chia̍h lo̍h pak. Chia̍h kúi-pái āu, lia̍p-á tō hó–ah. Lāi-soaⁿ bu̍t-chu bô hiah hong-hù, ē chia̍h–chit ê mi̍h-kiāⁿ khah iú-hān, chóng-sī lâm-pak jī-lō͘ ê cho̍k-jîn mā chin gâu, chha-put-to lóng chai-iáⁿ, siáⁿ mi̍h-kiāⁿ ē-sái bán, siáⁿ si̍t-bu̍t ū to̍k bē-sái tāng–tio̍h. Chi̍t-pái góa khì Tâi-pak Gē-choan (Gē-su̍t tāi-ha̍k) khui-hōe, im-ga̍k-hē ê hē-chú-jīm lâi chhōe góa: Lîm lāu-su lí lân-tit lâi Tâi-pak, kin-àm góa chhiáⁿ lí lâi-khì si̍t-hōe-só͘ chia̍h “chi̍t chôa, saⁿ chia̍h–lah!”Góa siūⁿ khí sè-hàn chia̍h chôa-bah tī-liâu lia̍p-á chiok hó ēng! Tō tah-èng chò-hóe khì hiáng-siū. Hit-keng soaⁿ-sán-tiàm khui tī Báng-kah, taⁿ í-keng koaiⁿ–khí-lâi-ah!

Kiâⁿ kàu tiàm-thâu, thâu-ke chin chhin-chhiat lâi chio-ho͘, beh chia̍h tó chi̍t chióng chôa “Thong thong iô͘.” Hē-chú-jīm ēng chhiú kí chi̍t-bóe chôa kóng: Goán beh saⁿ-khoán chia̍h hoat. Thâu-ke kái-soeh, án-ne chiū-sī:“Thâu, bóe kap kut chí thng, choâ tiong-kho͘ ê bah chò sā-sí-mih, bóe-á ēng hang–ê.” Chôa-táⁿ ka phòa āu, thîn lo̍h bí-chiú, ēng sè-tè po-lê au-á, chi̍t-ê lâng lim chi̍t-sut-á, in-ūi chôa-bah chiok chhiⁿ–ê, só͘-í chia̍h sā-sí-mih ê sî bô te̍k-pia̍t kám-kak án-choáⁿ. Chôa-thâu, ài lāi-hâng ê chiah ē-hiáu chhú-lí, nā bô kā to̍k the̍h–khí-lâi, sī chin gûi-hiám, bián hoân-ló–lah! Thâu-ke lóng chiok gâu thâi chôa. Kā chôa tiàu–leh, ēng chi̍t-ki sè-ki ka-to, tùi thâu ē-bīn ê phôe chián khui, ka-to tī chôa ê ām-á-kún se̍h chi̍t-liàn, siang-chhiú kā chôa-pôe hiòng ē-bīn choah–lo̍eh, chhut chi̍t-ē la̍t chôa-phôe kap sin-khu chiū hun-khui, kan-ta chhun bóe-liu ngia̍uh-ngia̍uh-iô.

M̄ -bat chia̍h kòe chôa-bah ê lâng ē tám-tám, chia̍h kòe it-tēng ē koh siūⁿ beh chia̍h. Ū lâng kóng chôa-bah chia̍h–khí-lâi, ná leh chia̍h ke-bah-si–leh, ū kàu chheng-tiⁿ–ê, gâu seⁿ-thâu hoat-bóe–ê, lia̍p-á, teng-á, eng-á, nā chhân-chhân chia̍h–nn̄g-pái-a, phôe-hu chin kín chiū ē iù-mi-mi, chin ku̍t-liu, kóng ná kóng–leh, kám ū hiah hó ēng?


食會所(si̍t-hōe-só͘):日語,小餐館。
sā-sí-mih:日語,生食。蛇肉處理後生食。
蛇尾溜(chôa bóe-liu):俗語「死蛇活尾溜。」蛇雖然死 ah ,尾仔彼段猶動無停。
膽膽(tám-tám):驚驚、會驚。
生頭發尾(seⁿ-thâu hoat-bóe):gâu 生粒仔、柱仔……。
癰仔(eng-á):一種惡性膿瘡,多長於頸、背、臀部,表皮多破孔出膿。

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